Tutorial: How to bring in the boat neckline of the Cuff top by The Assembly Line | A quick and easy adjustment for increased bra strap coverage on a woven top sewing pattern with a boat neckline
The Cuff top sewing pattern by The Assembly Line is a fantastic woven top pattern, but I find that the boat neckline on the pattern comes up a little wide. When I make the Cuff top, I always adjust to bring in each side of the neckline slightly. This gives better bra strap coverage and so makes the top more comfortable for me to wear.
The adjustment I make to bring in the boat neckline of the Cuff top is very quick and easy to do. I have included all the details below and I hope you will find this tutorial useful!
My quick and easy method to bring in the boat neckline of the Cuff top for increased bra strap coverage
Step 1 – Determine size of adjustment you would like to make. I like to bring the boat neckline of the Cuff top in by 1.5cm on each side. I find this gives a good amount of bra strap coverage. You could adjust by slightly more or slightly less than this amount, depending on your personal preference. For this example I will be using a 1.5cm adjustment throughout.
Step 2 – Adjust front pattern piece (all adjustments are shown in pink)
Adjust the front pattern piece to bring the neckline in by 1.5cm along the line of the seam allowance (the dashed line in this photo – the seam allowance on the shoulder seam is 1cm for reference). Note – by measuring the 1.5cm adjustment along the line of the seam allowance, rather than the edge of the pattern piece, you ensure that the correct 1.5cm adjustment is made at the point of the shoulder seam itself.
Add a seam allowance of 1cm to this adjustment.
Re-draw the curve of the front neckline from the new inner neckline point, merging the line into the front neckline as it curves to the front.
Tip: I find it easier to make this adjustment to the pattern piece after I have traced this pattern piece but before I have cut into the tracing paper. Otherwise you will need to stick on small extra pieces of paper to make the adjustment at a later point.
Step 3 – Adjust the back pattern piece
Follow the same method as for the front pattern piece (see step 2 above) to adjust the neckline of the back pattern piece by 1.5cm. See photos below. Note – The back neckline is less dipped than the front neckline, so the curve will have a slightly different shape to it.
Step 4 – Adjust the neck facing pattern piece
Adjust along the shoulder line (the dashed line) to bring the neckline in by 1.5cm on the facing piece.
You now need to ensure that the new curve of the facing neckline mirrors the new curves of the front and back pattern pieces. To do this, overlay the neck facing piece firstly on top of the front pattern piece (ensuring the front of the neck facing is placed on top of the front pattern piece). Match up the shoulder seam line (dashed line) and the neckline curve (black curved line). Trace the new curve from the front pattern piece onto the neck facing.
Flip the neck facing pattern piece over onto its wrong side. Overlay the neck facing piece on top of the back pattern piece. Match up the shoulder seams (dashed line) and neckline curve (black curved line). Trace the new curve from the back pattern piece onto the neck facing.
Note re interfacing pattern piece
The Cuff top pattern also includes a pattern piece for interfacing, which is designed to be applied to the neck facing to stabilize the neckline of the Cuff top. This interfacing pattern piece is exactly the same shape as the neck facing pattern piece but with two adjustments. It is 1cm smaller at the centre back and 0.5cm smaller around the internal edge – basically the interfacing pattern piece excludes the seam allowances included on the neck facing pattern piece.
When I make the Cuff top, I don’t adjust the interfacing pattern piece to bring in the neckline. I just cut the interfacing using the adjusted neck facing piece (as adjusted per step 4 above). I then trim off the seam allowances. I have highlighted in orange below the seam allowances that I trim off the interfacing for reference.
Step 5 – Cut out your three adjusted pattern pieces: the front pattern piece, the back pattern piece and the neck facing pattern piece. Use them to sew up your project. Enjoy wearing your Cuff top with a narrower boat neckline in the knowledge that your bra straps are less at risk from peeking out!
I hope you find this mini tutorial useful and you enjoy adjusting your patterns using this quick and easy method!
I have also made a YouTube video demonstrating the above steps and I have included this video below: