A review of the Hovea jacket sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patterns

When Megan Nielsen Patterns released their Hovea jacket sewing pattern, I knew it was only a matter of time before I made it.  I love Megan Nielsen: I find their patterns on trend and also (more importantly) very easy to wear.  Some of my all-time favourite sewing patterns are Megan Nielsen patterns. 

The Hovea jacket sewing pattern was released at the end of August 2021 alongside a huge amount of inspiration (lots of amazing pattern testers!) and tutorial information. It is clear that the pattern has so many different options and can be as simple or as intricate as you wish.

I have just finished sewing my first version of the Hovea jacket and I doubt it will be my last!

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The pattern

Let’s talk a bit about the Hovea sewing pattern before we go any further.  The Hovea jacket is a relaxed fit, drop shoulder jacket and coat pattern, with deep, angled feature pockets.  There are three length options: cropped (designed to sit just below your natural waist), mid-length (finishing at the hip) and longer length (falling mid-way between the hips and knees).  You can make the jacket lined or unlined.  The unlined option is finished with a bias binding detail.  The jacket can also be quilted.  For the longer length there is a belt closure option. There are also optional waist tie closures, which can be used for any of the lengths. 

For my jacket, I decided to make the cropped lined version with the collar band – view E. I thought this would be perfect to pair with jeans or a casual dress for Spring/Autumn days.

Fabric

The fabric recommendations for this pattern depend on which version you are making (although it is noted that pre-quilted fabrics are suitable for all versions).

For the versions finished with bias binding (versions B, D and F) the pattern recommends light to medium weight fabrics including cotton and linen, to ensure the seams are not too bulky for finishing with the bias binding.

For the versions finished with a collar band, medium to heavy weight fabrics are suggested – from cotton and linen to boiled, felted or suiting wool.

For my version, I was inspired by one of the versions on the pattern envelope – the cropped version in a khaki colour.  From looking into it further, I found that the fabric used for this sample was a Merchant & Mills cotton jacquard.  The jacquard fabric looks quilted but actually it is a layered cotton, which gives it a quilted look.  There is no batting in the middle of the fabric; the inside is made up of layers of thicker yarns which gives it a quilted feel.

I had a look on the Merchant & Mills website and selected their Harvest Pink Jacquard Square fabric for my Hovea.  The fabric is pricey but it is also beautiful: so soft and squishy and comfortable to wear.  I thought this plaster pink colour would be perfect for a Spring jacket and would go really well with the denim and navy shades in my wardrobe.

I really wanted a pretty fabric to line my Hovea jacket, as I liked the idea of turning up the sleeves to reveal a peek of the lining.  I chose a beautiful pink floral Liberty tana cotton lawn, which I purchased from Minerva.  I really love the combination of the pink cotton jacquard with this Liberty floral.

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I wasn’t sure if I would need a more slippery, silky fabric than the cotton lawn to line the sleeves of the Hovea.  But I have found the lawn to be absolutely fine – the sleeves are roomy enough so that they slip on easily over a top/sweatshirt.

If you are sewing with the Merchant & Mills cotton jacquard, one thing I would recommend is to overlock all of the pieces once they are cut out and before you start sewing.  As the jacquard is made up of layers of threads, it does fray a little if left unfinished.

Sizing

Megan Nielsen Patterns have a really great size range and the Hovea jacket is no exception. There are two size ranges available:

Size 0-20: This size range is available in both paper and pdf format.  The size range goes from the smallest size of b32 w24 h34 up to the largest size of b46 w38 h48.  This size range is designed for a B-cup.

Size 14 – 34: This size range is the Megan Nielsen Curve size range.  The size range goes from the smallest size of b40 w32 h42 up to the largest size of b56 w48 h58.   This size range is designed for a D-cup.

For my version of the Hovea jacket, I decided to use the straight size 0.  My measurements are b32 w26 h36, which would put me as a size 0 on the bust and a size 4 on the waist and hips.  However, the finished garment measurements for this pattern show the finished measurements of a size 0 as 43.6 inches for bust, waist and hips.  I knew this would give me plenty of room and I did not want the jacket too oversized anyway.

I am really happy with the final fit of the jacket and there is plenty of room for my waist and hips.  I think I would go for the straight size 0 if I made this one again.

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Also to note, I found the sizing information on the Hovea jacket pattern very comprehensive.  As well as the finished bust, waist and hips measurements, the pattern also provides the finished length measurement for each jacket length and the finished sleeve length too.  All very useful when considering adjustments that might be needed to ensure a great fit.

Adjustments

I made a toile of the Hovea jacket, to make sure I achieved a good fit for my final jacket.  I used a medium weight calico for the toile and a poly-cotton fabric for the lining, both purchased from Minerva.

I made my toile in a straight size 1 with no adjustments.  Once I had made my toile I decided to make the following adjustments for my final version:

1. I lengthened the sleeves by 1.5 inches
2. I lengthened the body of the jacket by 1.5 inches (for reference I am 5’6)

I found that the pockets came up a little shallow on my toile version of the cropped jacket.  But lengthening the jacket body, including pocket pieces, by 1.5 inches made the pockets a more usable depth in my opinion.

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Sewing process/pattern instructions

I always find Megan Nielsen pattern instructions to be very clear and comprehensive. The Hovea jacket instructions are no exception.

The pattern leaflet really covers everything you might need when making this jacket.  As well covering the sewing process in plenty of detail, there are also instructions on how to quilt your own fabric and how to make your own bias binding.  There is also more inspiration and information (including sewalong steps) on the Megan Nielsen website.  All these resources really hold your hand through the process of making your Hovea jacket.

One thing that I particularly appreciated in the instruction booklet is that you are given options for different parts of the sewing process.  For example it includes two different ways of attaching the sleeves to the bodice and explains the pros and cons of each method.  I really liked this level of detail.

Overall I found the jacket to be a very enjoyable and satisfying sew.  It came together pretty quickly especially given I was making the lined version.

I chose to finish my jacket by hand stitching down the collar on the inside of the jacket.  I really enjoyed taking my time on this final step.  I find hand stitching very mindful and I think it gives a really lovely finish.

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Summary

I think the Hovea jacket sewing pattern is the perfect relaxed, casual jacket for transitional weather.  I am really looking forward to styling mine with jeans and boots or with a jersey dress and some plimsolls.  The Merchant & Mills fabric makes it really comfy and I love the peek of the pretty Liberty lining fabric too. 

I think the Hovea jacket pattern would make a great winter coat as well, if sewn in a heavier weight wool blend fabric and in the longer length. 

It really is a flexible, fun and easy to wear jacket and coat pattern with so many options. The world is your oyster with this one!