2022 projects,  Sewing pattern reviews

A review of the Mile End sweatshirt and Plateau joggers by Closet Core Patterns

When Closet Core Patterns released their Montreal loungewear set in 2021, comprising the Mile End sweatshirt and the Plateau joggers, it really caught my eye.  I didn’t need any more sweatshirt patterns really, and I already had a favourite tried and true joggers pattern.  But that did not stop me from snapping up these two patterns and I am really glad I did.

Both patterns are full of really cool details that take them a step above your average loungewear set.  The pattern instructions are beautifully written.  And the garments are really comfortable to wear.  What more could you want? Read on for all of the details…

The patterns

The Mile End sweatshirt

Closet Core Patterns describe the Mile End sweatshirt as a fresh, modern take on a wardrobe staple.  The Mile End sweatshirt is a relaxed, boxy fit sweatshirt with dropped shoulders.

There are three different views available: view A is a classic crewneck sweatshirt.  View B has an added feature of a gathering at the front waistband with a fabric tie.  View C has a hood and a crossover front with a kangaroo pocket. 

All three views include some very interesting details: a curved back yoke, sleeve darts (I love the sleeve darts!) and diagonal side seams that create really cool style lines to the front of the sweatshirt.

I have made two Mile End sweatshirts already and have one more currently in progress!  All using view A – I couldn’t resist the appeal of a classic sweatshirt with all of the cool details included in this pattern. The details really do elevate this sweatshirt pattern.

The Plateau joggers

Similar to the Mile End sweatshirt, the Plateau joggers are described as an elevated take on classic knit jogging patterns.  The joggers have a fairly high rise, very cool wraparound pockets, an elastic waist and two options for the ankle finish (a fabric cuff or gathered elastic hem).  There is also an option to make Plateau shorts with a scalloped hem.

I was really curious to try this joggers pattern and see how it compared to the Hudson pants by True Bias, my go to joggers pattern.  It looked to me like the Plateau joggers had a higher rise and a looser leg fit than the Hudson pants and I was keen to see if that was the case.

Fabric

The fabric recommendations for both patterns are thicker knit fabrics like cotton fleece, polar fleece, French terry, ponte and double knits with at least 15% crosswise stretch.

For my versions I chose a really lovely quality organic fleece backed sweatshirt fabric by Mind the Maker, which I purchased from Minerva (link here).  I had sewn with this sweatshirt fabric before and knew that it was a really cosy sweatshirt fabric and very stable to sew with.  I love the colour range of this fabric too – it was very hard choosing colours as there were so many tempting options! I also love that matching ribbing fabric is available for the whole range (I have linked the ribbing fabric here).

For my first version of the Mile End sweatshirt I opted for the lilac colourway.  I purchased matching ribbing, which I used for the neckband and cuffs.  The Mind the Maker fleece backed sweatshirt is a fairly substantial sweatshirt fabric with 10% crosswise stretch (slightly less than recommended by the pattern) and so I thought ribbing would work best for the parts of the sweatshirt where I would need the most stretch. 

I did however choose to use the sweatshirt fabric instead of ribbing for the bottom band.  I though the bottom band would benefit from more structure, which would also help show of the feature of the diagonal side seam style lines.

I decided to make a matching loungewear set so also purchased the lilac colourway for my Plateau joggers.  Again with the joggers I opted for ribbing for the ankle cuffs and also for the waistband, as I though the sweatshirt fabric would be very bulky once gathered around the waist with elastic.

Although the fabric I used has less stretch than recommended by the pattern, it has worked absolutely fine.  The Plateau joggers have enough room in the legs to mean that the joggers are not restrictive if I bend my knees!

I loved my Mile End sweatshirt in the lilac Mind the Maker sweatshirt fabric so much that I went on to make a second version in their sage green colourway (link here).

Sizing

Closet Core Patterns have a really great size range and the Montreal loungwear collection is no exception. There are two size ranges available:

Size 0-20: This size range is available in both paper and pdf format.  The size range goes from the smallest size of b31 w24 h33 up to the largest size of b46 w39 h48.  This size range is designed for a B-cup.

Size 14 – 32: This size range is available in pdf only.  The size range goes from the smallest size of b42 w35 h45 up to the largest size of b60 w53 h63.   This size range is designed for a D-cup.

Mile End sweatshirt

I decided to make a straight size 0 for my versions of the Mile End sweatshirt.  My measurements are b32 w26 h36, which would put me as a size 2 on the bust, size 4 on the waist and size 6 on the hips.  However, the finished garment measurements for this pattern showed this pattern is designed to come up pretty oversized and I had heard from other people this was the case too.  There is still plenty of room in a straight size 0 on me and I am really happy with the fit, so I am glad I sized down.

Plateau joggers

In the pattern instructions leaflet, Closet Core recommend that you choose your size for the Plateau joggers based on your hips measurement.  They state that it is not necessary to grade between sizes if your waist is within one to two sizes of your hip, you can just adjust the length of elastic in the waistband accordingly to fit.

My hips would put me at a size 6 for this pattern.  However I decided to size up to a size 8.  This is because my fabric had less stretch than recommended by the pattern and I wanted to ensure a comfortable and not too restrictive fit.  The size 8 has worked well for me and I am happy with this fit.

Overall I found the Plateau joggers to be a more relaxed fit than the Hudson pants by True Bias.  The legs are slightly looser, the ankle cuffs are more subtle and also less fitted.  I really like both patterns and I think the differences are enough to give both patterns a defined place in my handmade wardrobe.

Adjustments

Mile End sweatshirt

I lengthened the sleeves on the sweatshirt by 1 inch (this is a pretty standard adjustment for me).  

I also lengthened the body of the sweatshirt by 3 inches – this seemed like a lot but the pattern does seem to be on the cropped side.

Plateau joggers

I increased the rise of the Plateau joggers by 1.5 inches.  Although the Plateau  joggers are described as high-rise, when I compared the pattern pieces to those of the mid-rise True Bias Hudson pants, there was not as much difference in the rise as I expected.  I therefore increased the rise to ensure the Plateau joggers sat around my natural waist.

I also lengthened the legs of the joggers by 4cm.  For reference I am 5’6.

Sewing process/pattern instructions

I find Closet Core Patterns instructions to be really excellent: very clear and comprehensive with lots of helpful detail.  The instructions for these two Montreal loungewear set patterns were no exception.

Mile End sweatshirt

For the Mile End sweatshirt, there was lots of information given throughout about optional topstitching opportunities, which I really liked. 

The pattern instructions also include helpful diagrams showing how to lengthen/shorten the body of the sweatshirt.

Plateau joggers

For the Plateau joggers, the construction of the wraparound pocket detail is really interesting. The instructions for this detail are written very clearly and the wraparound pockets came together really smoothly for me when I followed the instructions. 

I also really appreciated the sizing advice included in this pattern.  It was very helpful.

Overall I found both patterns really fun to sew. I especially enjoyed sewing all of the interesting details: from the sleeve darts and topstitching on the Mile End sweatshirt to the wraparound Plateau pockets. The little details not only look great on the final garments but also ensure that they are a satisfying sewing project with some nice nuances.

Summary

The Montreal loungewear set definitely achieves what Closet Core has set out to do: both the Mile End sweatshirt and the Plateau joggers are very wearable and really modern and stylish too. The whole vibe of the loungewear set is relaxed, comfy and cool.

I really enjoyed sewing both patterns and I love all of the interesting details that Closet Core has included.  I have been living in my Mile End sweatshirts since I made them; they work so well as loungewear but I have been wearing mine out paired with some jeans too.

I will be revisiting both of these patterns in future.  Yes I might not have needed them but I am very glad to have added them to my collection!

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